Different Approaches To Microblading & The Le Kitsuné Approach

You’re ready to try microblading, but now you’re faced with a choice: dark and dramatic or soft and natural? Some love going with bold strokes, claiming that the color will fade into perfection over time. It sounds great at first—who doesn’t want full, defined brows?

However, choosing the darker approach comes with risks you might not have been aware of. So, how do the different techniques impact the long-term appearance of your brows?

The Dark Start: Bold Now, Perfect Later?... maybe.

Many artists take the dark approach, going heavy from day one. The theory is that as the pigment fades over time, the brows become more natural-looking and are at their best around months 9 to 12.

Sounds like a plan, right? But there’s a lot more to it than meets the eye.

Firstly, while the brows initially look sharp and full, they can become too dark as time passes and they lose their initial sharpness. The color may change as pigment shifts over time, especially with exposure to sun, skincare products, and your body’s natural skin shedding processes. Sometimes, the color can turn cooler or gray - or even pink, making the brows look off. Instead of the natural, soft fade you want, you might end up with a harsh look. That’s because these sorts of brows typically lose their dimension as some pigments settle in and others fade.

This is because there are other variables at play. Pigments disperse in skin over time, causing strokes to lose their “crispness” if the pigment fades unevenly or the strokes fade in a way that causes them to become fuzzy, you can lose the defined, crisp looking brows you hoped for. We have worked with many clients who had their brow work done elsewhere and by the time they came to us their brows looked patchy or blotchy - not the natural look they had hoped for.

Going bold from day 1 in order to make your brows last a long time may seem attractive. However, as the color changes and fades over time, you will find yourself covering up your brows with brow pens and pencils more and more to hide the color or cover up where the pigment has faded.

The Risks of Going Dark

Choosing the dark approach can be tempting when you see bold brows immediately after your procedure. But this comes with risks.

Color shifting is one of the biggest concerns. As mentioned, darker pigments tend to fade and change. Namely, carbon is used to create the depth of color in darker colors and tends to last the longest, usually being the singular isolated color in the end (causing the blue-black tone). The result you might be left with is an unnatural tint after a while. Also, over time, the definition of the brow can decrease, especially if you’ve gone heavy-handed (oversaturated) in the beginning.

Another issue is dimensionality. Dark strokes can make your brows appear flat, especially if the pigment isn’t layered correctly. You may lose the delicate hair-like strokes you originally had, and your brows may look blocky or uneven after a few months. Since pigment is deposited under the skin, it will never retain the “crispness” of makeup, which is drawn on top, since the color needs to be expressed through the skin. It’s important to calibrate your expectations for what will look best and most natural on your features.

The Lighter Approach: Perfect From Day One? The Le Kitsuné Approach

The “lighter touch” method is the Le Kitsuné signature method. Going lighter can offer a more natural and consistent look from the get-go. Instead of starting with bold, dark strokes, a lighter application creates a soft and natural appearance that immediately enhances your features and leaves margin for greater depth to be added in future sessions. It leaves a margin for correction, which is crucial in PMU.

A “lighter-touch” approach with frequent touch ups addresses color shifting over time, which happens with all pigments, but is most noticeable in darker pigments. Since the application is more subtle, you won’t have to wait months for the pigment to fade into a more natural state—it’ll look great from day one.

This method emphasizes a gentler layering technique, like with painting, where the strokes are applied with precision to create dimension and mimic the look of natural hairs. The result is a soft, dimensional, realistic brow. As the pigment gradually fades, the transition remains smooth, giving you a naturally defined look without looking harsh.

We recommend touchups every 6-8 months to ensure your brows stay looking flawless - which is about the same time-frame that those going with the darker method will start to notice significant color shifting, potentially becoming a “flat” look.

Touch-Ups: Essential For Consistent Results

No matter the method, microblading will require some maintenance. Even if you get super dark brows, you’ll eventually need a touch-up to refresh the pigment and fix any fading. Occasional removal may even be recommended, to pull out pigment, soften saturation and give the client an opportunity to start with more natural looking brows again.

For brows new to permanent makeup, or those who have not received maintenance in over 9 months, your first eyebrow touch-up should be around 4 to 6 weeks after your initial session - and is typically included as part of your first service. During this appointment, your artist will assess how the brows have healed and apply additional pigment to ensure the results last.

At Le Kitsuné- the “lighter touch” method is our signature. We encourage our clients to come in every 6-8 months after their initial service to ensure their brows always look on point. We have found that after the 8-9 month mark fading and color shifting really ramp up. We want to update everything before the color shifting and fading really falls off so you look your best all the time.

If you start with a darker shade, your touch-up will be trickier. You’ll have to work with the underlying dark pigment that’s already settled, and getting a seamless blend can be challenging. Many of our clients who went with an artist using the more “heavy-handed” approach have ended up coming to us requiring expensive color corrections or laser removals in order to restore their brows before we could start to re-build their brows again.

Going lighter from the beginning means touch-ups are less invasive. Maintaining a natural, fresh look is easier without battling darker patches or uneven fading.

Why Light Is the Way to Go

The light approach minimizes risks. Using a softer, more gradual method, you get natural, dimensional brows from the moment you walk out of the studio. This approach works for almost any skin type and gives you the flexibility to shape and define your brows over time.

With our “lighter-handed” approach to your brows, you don’t have to worry as much about color shifts or uneven fading. You’ll see a smooth, natural transition as the pigment gradually lightens. Plus, you won’t have to power through a “dark phase” before your brows reach perfection. You will look good from day 1. Many of our clients go to important dates, meetings or dinners the same night as their service!

Get Flawless Brows at Manhattan’s Premier Eyebrow Tattooing & PMU Studio

Ready to get brows that look amazing from day one? At Le Kitsuné, we specialize in creating natural, flawless brows. Our experienced team in NYC takes the time to understand your unique goals, style and preferences, ensuring your brows stay on point as they heal—no harsh lines, no waiting months for the perfect look, just gorgeous brows from the start.

Want to learn more? Schedule a no-fee consultation with us today. Whether you’re new to eyebrow treatments or need a touch-up, we’ll help you get the brows you’ve always wanted.

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ReneeApril 22, 2025