Why does microblading fade and change color?

Permanent makeup pigments are deposited into the dermis layer of skin, where your body's immune system gradually breaks them down over time. Factors including sun exposure, skin type, metabolism, skincare products, and overall health all influence how quickly pigment fades and what undertones become visible as different pigment particles are absorbed at different rates.

How long does permanent makeup last before fading?

Most permanent makeup procedures last 1-3 years before requiring a color refresh. However, this varies significantly based on individual factors. Oily skin types may see faster fading (12-18 months), while those with dry skin may retain color longer (2-3 years). Sun exposure, skincare routines, and lifestyle factors also affect longevity.

Why did my microblading turn gray or blue?

Brown pigments are typically made from a combination of black, red, and yellow particles. As your body breaks down these components at different rates, the underlying cool tones (black) may become more visible, resulting in gray, blue-gray, or ashy undertones. This is especially common when pigment is implanted too deeply or with lower-quality pigments.

Why did my microblading turn orange or red?

If your permanent makeup develops warm, orange, or reddish tones over time, it means the cooler pigment particles have faded faster than the warm ones, leaving the red and orange undertones more visible. This can happen due to sun exposure, certain skincare ingredients, or individual skin chemistry.

Can permanent makeup color changes be corrected?

Yes, color correction is possible for most unwanted color shifts. Using color theory, a skilled artist can apply neutralizing pigments to counteract unwanted tones—for example, using orange-based pigments to neutralize blue-gray brows, or olive tones to neutralize red. Le Kitsuné offers color correction services for both our clients and those coming from other artists.

How often do I need permanent makeup touch-ups?

Most clients benefit from a color refresh every 12-24 months to maintain optimal vibrancy. However, frequency varies based on individual factors. Some clients may need annual touch-ups while others go 2-3 years between appointments. Regular maintenance prevents colors from shifting to unwanted undertones.

Does oily skin affect permanent makeup fading?

Yes, oily skin significantly affects pigment retention. Excess sebum production breaks down pigment more quickly and can cause strokes to blur or spread over time. Clients with oily skin typically experience faster fading and may benefit from powder or hybrid brow techniques rather than microblading for better longevity.

What skincare products cause permanent makeup to fade faster?

Products containing retinoids (retinol, tretinoin, Retin-A), AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid), BHAs (salicylic acid), vitamin C serums, and exfoliating acids accelerate skin cell turnover and can cause premature fading. These ingredients should be avoided in the treatment area. Sun exposure without SPF protection is also a major factor in pigment degradation.

Is permanent makeup pigment FDA approved?

The FDA considers permanent makeup pigments to be cosmetics. While cosmetic products are FDA-regulated, no color additives have been specifically approved by the FDA for injection into the skin. Reputable manufacturers follow Good Manufacturing Practices (GMPs) and MOCRA compliance requirements, using pigments that have been evaluated for safety.

Will my lip blush color change over time?

Yes, lip blush color will evolve as the pigment fades. Lips typically fade faster than brows due to the constant moisture, movement, and cell turnover in lip tissue. Colors generally soften and become more natural-looking over time. Clients with darker natural lip pigmentation may see different fading patterns than those with lighter lips.

Essential Reading

How Permanent Makeup Color Evolves

The Science, Timeline & What to Expect

Nothing about permanent makeup is permanent in the traditional sense. Your color will fade. It will shift. This is normal, expected, and part of the journey — not a failure of the procedure.

Understanding how pigment behaves over time helps you set realistic expectations, protect your investment, and know when it's time for a refresh.

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Part One

Why Permanent Makeup Color Changes Over Time

The science behind fading and color shift — and why it's not a flaw.

At Le Kitsuné, we believe in complete transparency. We treat you the way we would want to be treated if we were in your shoes. That's why we're telling you upfront: nothing about permanent makeup is guaranteed. The nature of cosmetic tattooing is such that color will inevitably change and fade over time. This isn't a defect — it's biology.

Permanent makeup pigments are deposited into the dermis, the second layer of skin. Unlike traditional tattoos that penetrate deeper, cosmetic pigments are designed to fade gradually. Your body's immune system recognizes these pigment particles as foreign matter and works continuously to break them down and absorb them. This process happens to everyone — the only variables are how quickly and in what direction the color shifts.

The pigments used in permanent makeup are not single colors — they're carefully formulated blends. A brown eyebrow pigment, for example, typically contains a mixture of black, red, yellow, and sometimes olive particles in precise ratios. As your body metabolizes these particles at different rates, the underlying undertones can become more visible, causing the color to appear warmer, cooler, or ashier than the original application.

The Honest Truth

Color evolution isn't a sign of poor work or inferior products — it's the natural outcome of how pigment interacts with living skin tissue over time. Every person heals differently, and even the same person may experience different results between appointments or between different areas of the face.

Learn More About Our Approach

The Le Kitsuné Approach What Is Nanoblading?

Part Two

The Healing Timeline: What to Expect at Every Stage

A realistic day-by-day and month-by-month guide to how your permanent makeup will evolve.

The first thing to keep in mind is that everyone's skin is different and constantly changing, so the following may or may not apply exactly to you — and that's okay! This timeline gives you parameters on what to expect so you can manage your expectations and plan accordingly.

Immediate Healing (Days 1–14)

Day 1

Bold & Intense

Immediately after your procedure, your brows may look bold and slightly darker than the ultimate outcome. This is because the pigment is fresh and sitting atop the skin. If you have sensitive skin, you may notice slight inflammation and some sensitivity in the area — this is all part of the process and will subside.

Days 2–3

Initial Healing Begins

When your skin is in the initial stages of healing, it's essential to keep the area clean and well moisturized. Avoid excessive touching or friction. It's common for the area to feel tender. Keep it moisturized to protect the healing skin and help reinforce the barrier, allowing the pigment to settle.

Days 3–7

Flaking & Peeling Stage

You may notice some light flaking or peeling in the brow area. It's tempting to want to scrub them or pull them off, but please resist! If and when they start to scab — don't pick or peel — this can lead to pigment loss or uneven healing. Most clients report little to no peeling with machine services (Hybrid, Nano, Powder).

Days 7–14

The "Ghost Phase"

Many clients panic during this stage because their permanent makeup appears to have disappeared or become extremely light. Don't worry — the pigment is still there, but a thin layer of new skin has formed over it. At this point, brows may look patchy or faded. Don't be alarmed — the pigment is settling beneath the surface.

Pro Tip

During healing, avoid skincare actives like AHAs, BHAs, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Retinoids, Tretinoin, and any form of Vitamin A, as well as Salicylic Acid. Anything exfoliating in nature will disrupt the skin's healing and recovery process. Hyaluronic Acid is okay.

Retinol & PMU: When to Stop & Restart

Read Our Full Healing Timeline Guide Pre-Care & Aftercare Instructions

First Year: Settling & Softening

Week 2

Skin Begins to Settle

Most clients report that the brows seem to have settled. For the peelers, the peeling should be mostly done and initial scabs will have fallen off. The skin is still healing, and the color may seem light, but it's beginning to settle into the desired shape and tone.

Weeks 3–4

Color "Bounces Back"

The primary healing process is coming to completion and the color will seem to "bounce back." The brows will appear more defined and uniform — and the pigment will settle nicely into the skin. By this timeframe, you will have a sense of the final outcome of your brows.

Weeks 4–8

True Color Emerges

Your healed result becomes fully visible. The color will be softer and more natural than immediately after your appointment. This is when we assess whether a touch-up is needed to adjust color, density, or shape. Most clients need at least one perfecting session.

Months 3–12

Optimal Results & Gradual Softening

This is typically when your permanent makeup looks its best — fresh, vibrant, and perfectly healed. As the months pass, pigment begins its natural fade. For most clients, this is subtle — the color simply becomes a bit softer and more natural-looking.

Long-Term Evolution (Years 1–3+)

After the first year, permanent makeup continues to evolve. Most procedures retain visible pigment for 1–3 years, though this varies dramatically based on individual factors. Some clients still have visible color after 3–5 years, while others fade significantly within 12–18 months.

What "fading" actually looks like: Permanent makeup rarely disappears completely. Instead, it typically fades to a softer, often cooler or warmer version of the original color. Microblading strokes may blur and soften. Powder brows become more subtle. Lip blush loses saturation. This gradual softening is why regular touch-ups (typically every 12–24 months) help maintain optimal results.

Common Color Shifts & Why They Happen

Gray or Blue-Gray Brows

When cooler pigment particles (black) remain after warmer tones fade. Often more noticeable in older work, work implanted too deeply, or with lower-quality pigments. Can be corrected with warm-toned color boosters.

Orange or Reddish Brows

When cool pigment particles fade faster than warm ones, leaving red and orange undertones more visible. Sun exposure and certain skincare products can accelerate this shift. Corrected with cool-toned neutralizers.

Ashy or Muddy Tones

A grayish-brown appearance that happens when pigment loses vibrancy without shifting distinctly warm or cool. Common as pigment ages. A color refresh restores richness and dimension.

Blurred or Soft Strokes

Microblading hair strokes may blur over time, especially in oily skin types or areas with more movement. This is why we often recommend powder or hybrid techniques for certain skin types.

Uneven Fading

Some areas may fade faster than others — often the inner brow (more movement, better blood flow) fades faster than the tail. Lip centers may fade faster than edges. Touch-ups address these inconsistencies.

Lip Color Softening

Lip blush typically fades faster than brow work due to constant moisture, movement, and cell turnover. Colors soften to more natural tones. Annual refreshes maintain desired saturation.

Color Not Looking Right?

Corrections & Removals Guide

Part Three

Factors That Affect How Your Color Evolves

What you can control — and what you can't.

A myriad of factors influence how your permanent makeup fades and shifts over time. Some are within your control; others are simply part of your unique biology. Understanding these factors helps you protect your investment and maintain realistic expectations.

Factors Beyond Your Control

Skin Type

Oily skin breaks down pigment faster and can cause strokes to blur. Dry skin often retains color longer. Your skin's undertone affects how pigments appear when healed and how they shift over time.

Metabolism & Immune Response

A faster metabolism means faster pigment breakdown. Your immune system's efficiency at removing foreign particles varies individually and even changes throughout your lifetime.

Age & Skin Condition

Mature skin has different texture and healing characteristics. Cell turnover slows with age, which can mean longer retention — but also potentially different color behavior as pigment settles.

Hormonal Fluctuations

Pregnancy, menopause, thyroid conditions, and other hormonal changes can affect pigment retention and cause faster or uneven fading. Results may vary during different life stages.

Genetics

Your genetic makeup influences everything from skin type to immune response to how your body processes pigment particles. Some people simply retain color better than others.

Health & Medications

Overall health, chronic conditions, and certain medications can all affect healing and retention. Serious illness during the healing period can cause significant pigment loss.

Factors Within Your Control

Sun Exposure

UV rays are the #1 enemy of permanent makeup longevity. Sun exposure breaks down pigment, causes color shifts, and accelerates fading. Always apply SPF 30+ over healed permanent makeup when outdoors.

Skincare Products

Retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, glycolic acid, and vitamin C serums accelerate cell turnover and fade pigment faster. Avoid these ingredients directly over your permanent makeup.

Aftercare Compliance

How you care for your permanent makeup during the initial healing period significantly impacts long-term retention. Following pre-care and aftercare instructions precisely is essential.

Chemical Treatments

Chemical peels, laser treatments, microdermabrasion, and facials that include exfoliation can prematurely fade your permanent makeup. Inform your aesthetician about your PMU.

Lifestyle Factors

Swimming in chlorinated pools, excessive sweating, saunas, and steam rooms can all accelerate fading. Iron-rich diets and certain supplements may also affect color retention.

Touch-Up Timing

Regular maintenance prevents colors from shifting to unwanted undertones. Scheduling refreshers every 12–24 months keeps your permanent makeup looking fresh and prevents dramatic color changes.

Protecting Your Investment

The single most important thing you can do to extend the life and quality of your permanent makeup is consistent sun protection. A mineral SPF applied daily over your brows, and SPF lip products for lip blush, will dramatically slow fading and help prevent color shifts. Think of your permanent makeup like a beautiful piece of art — protect it from the elements.

Essential Reading

Retinol & PMU: When to Stop & Restart Pre-Care & Aftercare Guide

Part Four

Our Commitment to You

How we manage color longevity and support you through every stage.

We implement color-conscious techniques designed to manage color longevity for as long as possible. This includes careful pigment selection based on your unique skin undertone, strategic formulation to anticipate how colors will fade, and application techniques optimized for your skin type. We stay current with the ever-evolving permanent makeup industry to bring you the best products and methods available.

We also offer color corrections — both for our own clients and those coming from other artists. If your previous permanent makeup has faded to an unwanted color, shifted dramatically, or simply needs refreshing, we can help. Color correction uses principles of color theory to neutralize unwanted tones and restore beautiful, natural-looking results.

"We are committed to our clients and truly have your best interest in mind. This is why if you're a Le Kitsuné client and your color changes, we'll take care of it for you. It's what we do."

— Renee

Master Permanent Makeup Artist, Le Kitsuné NYC

Corrections & Removals Guide View Our Eyebrow Services

Important Regulatory Information

FDA & Pigment Safety

The FDA considers permanent makeup pigments to be cosmetics. No color additives have been specifically approved by the FDA for injection into the skin. While reputable manufacturers use pigments that have been evaluated for safety and follow Good Manufacturing Practices (GMPs) and MOCRA compliance requirements, the long-term health effects of tattooing pigments are not fully known. As with any elective cosmetic procedure, you assume responsibility for your decision to proceed.

We urge you to consult your medical doctor before proceeding if you have any health concerns. Individuals assume their own risk in proceeding with any permanent makeup procedure. We use only pigments from manufacturers who are registered with the FDA and follow current Good Manufacturing Practices, but this does not constitute FDA approval of the pigments for injection.

By proceeding with permanent makeup at Le Kitsuné, you acknowledge that you have read and understood this information about color evolution, regulatory status, and the inherent unpredictability of results. We're here to give you the most beautiful, long-lasting results possible — and to support you as your permanent makeup evolves over time.

Before You Book

PMU Candidacy Guidelines Frequently Asked Questions What to Expect

Ready for Beautiful, Long-Lasting Results?

Schedule a complimentary video consultation at our Manhattan studio. We'll discuss your goals, assess your skin type, and create a personalized plan for permanent makeup that ages beautifully.

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